"Application has been blocked from accessing graphics hardware" in Windows 10 notifications.

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Peter Hucker
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Message 96058 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 11:02:35 UTC
Last modified: 25 Feb 2020, 11:08:55 UTC

I'm running 3 GPUs in my system and it's crashing quite often - sometimes one card stops working, sometimes the keyboard becomes unresponsive too, but usually the display stays on the screen. It's usually the same card that stops working if it's just one that stopped, but today it's two of them. I suspect the power supplies are not stable enough and I have better ones on order. But today I noticed 18 (!) Windows 10 notifications saying:

Application has been blocked from accessing graphics hardware.
Application hsgamma_FGRPB1 has been blocked from accessing graphics hardware.

Does this mean anything to anyone? A google search just suggests checking drivers, RAM, etc. I know all of that to be fine. It's a fresh install with the latest drivers and Boinc and updates. Memtest has tested the RAM as ok. Virtually nothing else on the system but AVG and MSI Afterburner (to control GPU fan speeds). They are not overheating, I keep them below 70C. They're all connected to one 4 way riser with USB leads.
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Message 96059 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 11:28:29 UTC - in response to Message 96058.  
Last modified: 25 Feb 2020, 11:28:54 UTC

It's a fresh install with the latest drivers and Boinc and updates.
Which tells people trying to help exactly nothing.
Is it an Nvidia GPU, or AMD, or Intel? Driver version?

The AMD drivers are very unstable since they changed over to the newer Adrenalin 2020 version. I have crashes in the driver and videocard when it's just sitting on my desktop and I am not using the system. Type reliability into Windows Search to bring up your reliability history chart to see what is all crashing. It may show hardware errors, but those can just be drivers crashing, nothing to do with hardware.

It can also be that your Windows isn't so fresh anymore. In that case see https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image and follow the Repairing issues with DISM using RestoreHealth option and How to run SFC to repair problems on Windows 10 options to fix possible problems with your WIndows 10. One of my systems which had a new Windows 10 Pro installation on it got fixed that way. Just telling that even completely new Win10 installations don't mean your system is stable.
Please do not private message me for tech support, these will be ignored!
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96062 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 12:53:06 UTC - in response to Message 96059.  

It's a fresh install with the latest drivers and Boinc and updates.
Which tells people trying to help exactly nothing.
Is it an Nvidia GPU, or AMD, or Intel? Driver version?


Sorry, I thought I'd listed everything. Three AMD Radeon R9 280X, not overclocked. 2nd hand, so could have been overheated or overclocked by a previous user. One of the cards seems to lock up more than the others. Radeon driver version 19.2.2. I have tried 19.2.3 on another machine but it caused a weird glitch in the mouse cursor, the "half busy" arrow plus spinning wheel flashing on and off all the time. I'm using rubbish power supplies at the moment which are 10.5V with no load on the 5V, putting a dummy load on 5V, they give 11.5V. I'm going to fit a decent Corsair supply later today.

The AMD drivers are very unstable since they changed over to the newer Adrenalin 2020 version. I have crashes in the driver and videocard when it's just sitting on my desktop and I am not using the system. Type reliability into Windows Search to bring up your reliability history chart to see what is all crashing. It may show hardware errors, but those can just be drivers crashing, nothing to do with hardware.


Wow, I never even knew that thing existed. I see "hardware error" a lot, generally in groups of 2 or 3, presumably one for each card. Not sure how to interpret any of the codes that appear. Would any of it mean anything to you?

Which version of Radeon drivers would you suggest is most stable? The machine is used for nothing except Boinc, and only runs Milkyway and Einstein Gamma (not Gravity as the CPU ain't good enough) on the GPUs.

It can also be that your Windows isn't so fresh anymore. In that case see https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image and follow the Repairing issues with DISM using RestoreHealth option and How to run SFC to repair problems on Windows 10 options to fix possible problems with your WIndows 10. One of my systems which had a new Windows 10 Pro installation on it got fixed that way. Just telling that even completely new Win10 installations don't mean your system is stable.


How can it not be fresh when I only installed it a week ago? I've run DISM and SFC anyway, and they both found no problems.
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Richard Haselgrove
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Message 96064 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 13:43:42 UTC - in response to Message 96062.  

How can it not be fresh when I only installed it a week ago? I've run DISM and SFC anyway, and they both found no problems.
Depends how old your installation medium is. Even if you downloaded it the same day, it might have been sitting on the server for weeks, months, years. Did you keep forcing Windows updates until it said there was nothing left to do?
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96066 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 13:46:27 UTC - in response to Message 96064.  

How can it not be fresh when I only installed it a week ago? I've run DISM and SFC anyway, and they both found no problems.
Depends how old your installation medium is. Even if you downloaded it the same day, it might have been sitting on the server for weeks, months, years. Did you keep forcing Windows updates until it said there was nothing left to do?


It's a Windows 10 DVD I've had for ages. But the first thing I did was keep asking for updates until there were none left.
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Message 96073 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 15:45:04 UTC - in response to Message 96062.  

I'm using rubbish power supplies at the moment

That can cause wild stability problems with 3 GPUs in the system of course. That new PSU can help a lot.

What is the exact Windows version and build over there? Press WIN key and type cmd, then hit ENTER and type winver and hit ENTER.
If the version on the DVD is very old it has lost its ability to update itself by now. It would remain outdated even if you kept clicking the 'update'.
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96074 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 15:56:02 UTC - in response to Message 96073.  

I'm using rubbish power supplies at the moment

That can cause wild stability problems with 3 GPUs in the system of course. That new PSU can help a lot.


Yip, that's what I was thinking. I've got a Corsair 850W which will happily run two of them and the computer. Fitting it in a moment (it just arrived today). Was previously running a CIT 850W for the computer and 1 GPU, then another CIT 850W for each of the other GPUs. The other two that aren't running the computer I've actually connected a car headlamp to the 5V output because they're designed so badly that 12V ain't 12V if there's no 5V current!

What is the exact Windows version and build over there? Press WIN key and type cmd, then hit ENTER and type winver and hit ENTER.
If the version on the DVD is very old it has lost its ability to update itself by now. It would remain outdated even if you kept clicking the 'update'.


Version 1909, Build 18363.657.

I've never come across a Windows that won't update. It installed many updates, including large ones when I asked it several times to update. I got a handful of updates each time. According to Wikipedia, the one after 1909 is still in preview only.
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Message 96075 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 16:19:34 UTC - in response to Message 96074.  

Version 1909, Build 18363.657


Yes that looks good! Update did work for sure. There are still Win 10 dvd's circling around with old version 1511 or 1703 in them. A new installation from that kind of media wouldn't get update for the updater itself nor major upgrades to never versions. They might get some old updates but never be "up-to-date" anymore.
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96077 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 17:03:47 UTC - in response to Message 96075.  
Last modified: 25 Feb 2020, 17:47:59 UTC

Version 1909, Build 18363.657


Yes that looks good! Update did work for sure. There are still Win 10 dvd's circling around with old version 1511 or 1703 in them. A new installation from that kind of media wouldn't get update for the updater itself nor major upgrades to never versions. They might get some old updates but never be "up-to-date" anymore.


My DVD says 1709. That seems strange that older ones won't update. Why on earth would Microsoft do that?!?

Just installed the new (well, 2nd hand) Corsair 850W supply, and it's actually ok running all three GPUs and the computer (I was only going to test it with 2). I checked the power usage at the wall and it's 760W, so within limits. Eeek, that was for Einstein. For MW it's 880W. I'm guessing that with inefficiencies, I'm probably not exceeding 850W out of the PSU, and if I was, Corsairs are sensible enough to cut out rather than go bang like Alpines do.

12V at the end of every wire is between 12.05V and 12.2V, so everything is getting enough power. I'll see how stable this is....

I do have a 1kW 12V only supply in the post from China (intended for powering many many LED lightings), it's got fine tuning to make the 12V exactly 12V. My plan is to share the load between that (on 2 GPUs) and the Corsair (on the computer and 1 GPU), so I don't wear out the power supplies.
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Message 96083 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 20:24:05 UTC - in response to Message 96077.  

That seems strange that older ones won't update. Why on earth would Microsoft do that?!?


I've understood that the update infrastructure which Microsoft is running these days and the internal architecture of Win 10 have changed so much in 4-5 years that those oldest versions would require a massive amount of patching and stiching before those systems would even understand what they are connected to. The update process has been redesigned completely. Then... updating those old junkyards (1511 at least) would basically be the same as a complete wipe and installation of the OS. I think it's wise for Microsoft if they don't support online upgrading straight from those old versions anymore. That saves their resources.

I'm not sure if those systems can be upgraded by using the MS 'Media Creation Tool'. I'm pretty sure that "upgrade" would then again be a complete wipe and installation of the OS. Not different than a fresh installation to a new drive. I would't trust for a second that my own files would be found anywhere on the connected drives after that process, even if the process gave an option to keep my files.
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96084 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 20:44:33 UTC - in response to Message 96083.  

That seems strange that older ones won't update. Why on earth would Microsoft do that?!?


I've understood that the update infrastructure which Microsoft is running these days and the internal architecture of Win 10 have changed so much in 4-5 years that those oldest versions would require a massive amount of patching and stiching before those systems would even understand what they are connected to. The update process has been redesigned completely. Then... updating those old junkyards (1511 at least) would basically be the same as a complete wipe and installation of the OS. I think it's wise for Microsoft if they don't support online upgrading straight from those old versions anymore. That saves their resources.

I'm not sure if those systems can be upgraded by using the MS 'Media Creation Tool'. I'm pretty sure that "upgrade" would then again be a complete wipe and installation of the OS. Not different than a fresh installation to a new drive. I would't trust for a second that my own files would be found anywhere on the connected drives after that process, even if the process gave an option to keep my files.


I see no reason to get a newer DVD if I want to reinstall. If my DVD had been a couple of versions older and refused to update, I would have simply downloaded a manual update to get it started.

But there's no excuse for Microsoft not allowing it to update. It should first get a major upgrade file, boosting it's version, then continue to get the little ones. Which is what I've always seen. I do have some very old Windows 10 DVDs, maybe next time I'll try one of those to see if it upgrades automatically. This time I just happened to grab a fairly new one I'd bought to install on a computer I was building for someone. They never bought it. I'm now typing this to you from it :-)
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Message 96085 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 20:54:28 UTC - in response to Message 96084.  
Last modified: 25 Feb 2020, 20:56:15 UTC

At least the Media Creation Tool fits on a 4GB USB thumb drive. All you need is a USB 2.0 slot, or faster (preferably faster). And the one you download is always the latest. (well, bar the updates that have come out since)

You asked how can a fresh install of Windows 10 be corrupt? I wonder that myself, but it happened to me on one of my machines. That also had a one week version of Win10 Pro on it, but DISM and SFC /scannow found faults to be fixed. And since that fix that system is stable, where it wasn't before.
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96086 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 21:13:40 UTC - in response to Message 96085.  
Last modified: 25 Feb 2020, 21:15:15 UTC

At least the Media Creation Tool fits on a 4GB USB thumb drive. All you need is a USB 2.0 slot, or faster (preferably faster). And the one you download is always the latest. (well, bar the updates that have come out since)


I've never had a problem just using an old DVD, then telling it to update. And I hate trying to make USB sticks bootable :-/ It never seems to work, either I do it wrong or the BIOS don't like booting from there. I like to start from a DVD.

You asked how can a fresh install of Windows 10 be corrupt? I wonder that myself, but it happened to me on one of my machines. That also had a one week version of Win10 Pro on it, but DISM and SFC /scannow found faults to be fixed. And since that fix that system is stable, where it wasn't before.


Well hopefully I sorted the problems by adding the new power supply. That poor Corsair 850W I just installed is running at almost 850W, powering the computer and three GPUs at once. But the air coming out the back of it feels like 45C, it doesn't smell bad, the 12V rail is sitting at 12.02V to 12.2V at the ends of the wires, and Corsair design things properly so I assume it has an overcurrent cutout. Unfortunately the 1kW 12V only supply I bought had to come from China as they don't sell them in the UK, and Germany was out of stock. When I get that, they'll both be running at half power. I don't like maxing out power supplies 24/7, they don't last so long. The system has only been going for 3 hours with the new supply, and before it was crashing about every 8 hours, so I'll find out tomorrow morning.... I know as soon as I walk into the living room, it's considerably warmer if the computer is still running!
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Message 96087 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 21:21:54 UTC - in response to Message 96086.  

And I hate trying to make USB sticks bootable :-/ It never seems to work, either I do it wrong or the BIOS don't like booting from there. I like to start from a DVD.


use a tool called Rufus. makes it really easy on Windows. just give Rufus the .iso file and tell it what USB drive you want to be bootable with that .iso and it does the rest.
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Message 96091 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 21:43:56 UTC - in response to Message 96086.  

I like to start from a DVD.
Trouble is, at least with desktop PCs that you're hard pressed at finding a DVD or Blu-Ray player on board these days, what with all the large RGB fans and radiators at the front. There's no room anymore in most cases to put anything protruding from the front, so then you end up attaching an external player via USB, since these cases have an abundance of those ports on board. And then it's just as easy to use a thumb drive instead of a (scratched!) DVD.

(My Fractal Design case has 2x USB-A 2.0, 2x USB-A 3.2 Gen 1 (5 Gbps), 1x USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 (10 Gbps) on the front and the motherboard has a further 1x USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-A port (10 Gb/s), 1x USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C Port (10 Gb/s) and 6 USB 3.1 Gen1 at the back. It's USB heaven!)
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96092 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 21:46:45 UTC - in response to Message 96091.  

I like to start from a DVD.
Trouble is, at least with desktop PCs that you're hard pressed at finding a DVD or Blu-Ray player on board these days, what with all the large RGB fans and radiators at the front. There's no room anymore in most cases to put anything protruding from the front, so then you end up attaching an external player via USB, since these cases have an abundance of those ports on board. And then it's just as easy to use a thumb drive instead of a (scratched!) DVD.

(My Fractal Design case has 2x USB-A 2.0, 2x USB-A 3.2 Gen 1 (5 Gbps), 1x USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 (10 Gbps) on the front and the motherboard has a further 1x USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-A port (10 Gb/s), 1x USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C Port (10 Gb/s) and 6 USB 3.1 Gen1 at the back. It's USB heaven!)


I have a spare SATA DVD recorder (they're only £13). I just plug that temporarily into any system needing a new OS install. Before I bought that I'd just yank it out of my main PC. SATA is hot pluggable, didn't even switch it off.
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Peter Hucker
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Message 96094 - Posted: 25 Feb 2020, 21:47:55 UTC - in response to Message 96087.  

And I hate trying to make USB sticks bootable :-/ It never seems to work, either I do it wrong or the BIOS don't like booting from there. I like to start from a DVD.


use a tool called Rufus. makes it really easy on Windows. just give Rufus the .iso file and tell it what USB drive you want to be bootable with that .iso and it does the rest.


Argh, more to learn :-P

I stick with what always works. Since I have some quite old machines, some of them don't even know what USB booting is.
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Message 96154 - Posted: 28 Feb 2020, 6:09:33 UTC

Seems like you found your error. I've noticed multiple times, how PSUs can be unstable when running them near the max of their rating.
An 800W PSU, you best run at 300-600W at the wall (400-500W being optimal).

I would second, a USB Blu-ray RW, since they're only a few bucks more than a DVD player, and can do Blu-ray, and read and write (if they can do M-Disc is even better).
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Message 96176 - Posted: 28 Feb 2020, 19:36:47 UTC - in response to Message 96154.  

Seems like you found your error. I've noticed multiple times, how PSUs can be unstable when running them near the max of their rating.
An 800W PSU, you best run at 300-600W at the wall (400-500W being optimal).

I would second, a USB Blu-ray RW, since they're only a few bucks more than a DVD player, and can do Blu-ray, and read and write (if they can do M-Disc is even better).


The new PSU has helped dramatically, Corsair 850W, actually running at 870W at the wall until I get the LED 1kW supply to assist. But Corsair are made properly, if it's too much for it it will shut down instead of blowing up. But 12V, 5V, 3.3V are all correct unlike the cheap supplies. One day I'll have a check to see if the Corsair supplies a proper 12V with no 5V load. The CIT supplies did not.

But it still crashes occasionally. I've now moved one of the three GPUs to another machine (but still off the same PSU), to find out if it's the GPU, the motherboard, the PCI Express adaptor, etc. So far it's running for much longer so I'm nearly there.

I hardly ever use DVDs, only on the odd occasion I want to run Memtest or install an OS. I've got two SATA DVD recorders, that will do me. And since SATA is hot pluggable, I can even remove it from a machine while it's running.
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Message 96192 - Posted: 29 Feb 2020, 10:49:41 UTC - in response to Message 96176.  

Seems like you found your error. I've noticed multiple times, how PSUs can be unstable when running them near the max of their rating.
An 800W PSU, you best run at 300-600W at the wall (400-500W being optimal).

I would second, a USB Blu-ray RW, since they're only a few bucks more than a DVD player, and can do Blu-ray, and read and write (if they can do M-Disc is even better).


The new PSU has helped dramatically, Corsair 850W, actually running at 870W at the wall until I get the LED 1kW supply to assist. But Corsair are made properly, if it's too much for it it will shut down instead of blowing up. But 12V, 5V, 3.3V are all correct unlike the cheap supplies. One day I'll have a check to see if the Corsair supplies a proper 12V with no 5V load. The CIT supplies did not.

But it still crashes occasionally. I've now moved one of the three GPUs to another machine (but still off the same PSU), to find out if it's the GPU, the motherboard, the PCI Express adaptor, etc. So far it's running for much longer so I'm nearly there.

I hardly ever use DVDs, only on the odd occasion I want to run Memtest or install an OS. I've got two SATA DVD recorders, that will do me. And since SATA is hot pluggable, I can even remove it from a machine while it's running.


I would advise against running the PSU for prolonged time at those wattage ratings. It'll shorten the life of your PSU and possibly hardware as well.
Plus, there's a chance PCIE risers will act unstable when all hardware is maxed out.
Each GPU can easily be trimmed down by 10-25% of power consumption, without any performance loss. (up to 60% on some projects with a RTX 2080 Ti).
if you're planning on running those wattages, it's best to run a 1000-1500W PSU.
I run dual 1000W PSUs in mine (one per motherboard), and limit my GPUs to 4 per board, but run them usually around 800-900W max at the wall (because my UPS is rated up to 900W (but can still handle 975W)).
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